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Travelers' Tales from Beijing


The Red Monkey Traveler

Carl gave the taxi driver the hotel's address. The driver laughed. Both Carl and Crystal knew why. The paper had the address written in both Chinese and in English. It also made a polite request to take the couple directly to the hotel, no small mini-tours that day please. The printed directions had been part of the trip information form the tour company. Crystal thought it was a little overkill, as it was the size of a small book. But she and Carl had read it cover-to-cover.

Crystal was pleased as they entered the "hotel." It was actually a traditional Chinese courtyard home that had been converted. Their tour leader, Mark, met them and helped them check in. After dropping off their bags in the room, they met back in the lobby with Mark. He introduced the four other people that would travel with them for the next two weeks.

Mark outlined the trip and went over some details of their stay in Beijing. He handed out some language cards, talked a little about Mandarin, and how to use the cards. He also gave them a pocket-sized card with different addresses written on both languages. He explained these would come in useful during their trip.

They all decided on Chinese food that evening. On the way to the restaurant, Mark pointed out the easiest place to change money, the nearest cafe, and a small market to buy snacks. The restaurant was small, only ten tables. The menu was in Chinese and apparently no one spoke English. But Mark translated and ordered so much food; they had to put two tables together. The food was delicious.

Next morning, Mark met them at the hotel. He told them they could taxi to Tiananmen but the more interesting way was a short subway ride. Although early in the morning, the streets were already bustling with people. At eh station, Mark showed them the map of Beijing, where they were, and where they were headed. Carl was elected to buy the tickets for the group. He returned quite proud the ticket clerk had understood him.

Mark explained the history of Tiananmen and the Forbidden City. After lunch, he took them through some old neighborhoods, called hutongs. They didn't see many foreigners after they left the Forbidden City.

Dinner that night was at a traditional Beijing noodle house. It was swarming with young men dressed in traditional Chinese garb, sometimes literally running to deliver plates of food or to bus a table. Crystal said she had never seen a Chinese restaurant like this one. Everyone laughed and agreed. One of the other travelers suggested moving the entire restaurant, lock, stock, and barrel to San Francisco and make a killing.

On the way to see the Great Wall the next morning, Mark explained they were going to a section that had not been renovated. In fact, he said, to his knowledge, it hadn't appeared in any of the travel guidebooks. But it was only a matter of time until it did, he added. Then he and his partners would be out scouting new locations. Crystal thought the idea of having a picnic on the Great Wall was the highpoint of the trip so far. They ran out of film.

That evening, they had dinner at a restaurant in a private room. Mark said the name of the restaurant really didn't translate into English. Nobody cared. The food just kept coming and coming; hot vegetable dishes, cold dishes, fish, meat dishes. Mark explained this was a typical Chinese banquet. No one could move after the meal. Mark suggested a foot massage might be in order after their trek that day.

Carl thought going by public bus to the Summer Palace had been a great idea. Crystal said it was a waste of valuable shopping time. The other women agreed. It was off to the market.

Before they entered the market, Mark reviewed the bargaining strategies they had been sent in the predeparture packet. He offered to get them started. It seemed very strange to Carl and Crystal at first, but after the first couple "negotiations", they started to really have fun. Carl said they would have to buy bigger luggage if they had too much fun.

That night after a meal of Peking Duck, it was off to the train station for the overnight train to Xi'An. Everyone agreed it had been three wonderful days in Beijing.


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